I mentioned to family and friends a while ago that I was going to write a blog about my Australian eating experiences. The problem with this proposition was that the sensory rush that one feels when consuming a pork and rosemary pizza (oh what a rush-- the sweet pig and I reunited) tends to fade rather quickly once one returns to rice and white beans on a regular basis.
So I am here to do a sort of fusion-blog (and I hope you appreciate the gastronomic tie-in there), covering Turkish and 'other' food experiences.
Recently I have been pleased to discover nice Turkish food. This is a rather sacreligious call in the expat community, as we are duty bound to declare love for all things oily and patlican on stepping foot into Attaturk, as far as I can tell. However, a diet of school cafeteria versions of 'classic' Turkish food did its bit to put me off for a good time. I thought I just didn't really like Turkish food, and it is still true that I don't think it is really my favourite 'cuisine' on the whole. However, I have definately developed a taste for lightly grilled onion and smoky eggplant (actually I already like the latter), and am a big fan of pizza with hazelnuts, otherwise known as fındık lahmacun. I also like the Turkish approach to restaurant eating. The food tends to come in little segments that have to be properly rolled, sprinkled, peeled and/or mushed together in order for the proper effect to be acquired. (This is another reason I think I didn't 'get it' right away-- white beans and rice is HEAPS better with the red pepper spice and minty herbs, olive oil and pomegranate oil... perhaps obviously, in retrospect.) I like this because it makes me feel that bit more native when I know which bread goes with what, but also because it seems to reflect something of the approach to daily business that I witness in other contexts here-- that is that food and eating does not have to be all that accessible to be appreciated and enjoyed. It's not really that simple to eat, and no-one gets to ask for the burger/pasta version that can just be shovelled down with a fork. It can be messy and somewhat complicated to share köfte, but no-one is complaining about that or expects it to be otherwise. This goes along with, in my mind, the common and ostentatious use of toothpicks to clean ones teeth afterwards. In both cases the diner ends up rather undignified (according to what I am used to) but of course at the same time, this being 'normal' it isn't so undignified. It seems like a more visceral experience to dining is enjoyed here, and a less pretentious one for it.
Not that the Turkish cuisine advocates or neccessitates an undignified approach to food. Far from it! It's more that the dignity is found in the care and patience with which the meal is prepared and eaten.
Finally, I like the emphasis on sharing. Who doesn't want to get at some of what their neighbour has? Of course Turkey is not alone in cultivating this gastronomic covetousness. But when it is combined with the extra attentive waiter (offering you paper towel every time you drip eggplant juice down your wrist) and the melodramatic Turkish pop star careening in the background, it all starts to feel quite homely.
Australia has its charms too though. First of all, Australia seems to have the heating thing down in a way that much of Europe seems to struggle with. Am I alone in desiring a healthy 20-22* temperature? Turkey is mostly too warm, but in Summer, too cold. Lots of places seem to suffer from Did-you-know-we-can-afford-air-conditioning syndrome, also observed in parts of Asia.
And Australia has pigs. Did I mention that I miss pork?
Other than this, what I like about Australia is my own ability to judge a book by its cover there. My instincts for quality restaurants in a range of 'presentations' is well honed in Australia. I can seek out the cheap but tasty with little trouble, and I am all over the expensive but worth it. Unimpressive but authentic? Got that down too.
By contrast, when I tried to do my usual 'stake out' of the kebab restaurants of Trabzon-- doing the walk by, staying off the main streets, looking for the one most of the Turks went to etc..... I just ended up in a really average restaurant. Twice. I tried Expensive But Worth it in Ortaköy too-- and ended up paying 27 YTL for deep fried cheese spring rolls and nescafe.
Having said this, my radar seems to be improving somewhat with time. Or maybe I am just going to the places I have had luck with more often. But I know I will be returning for some tavuk şiş and dusty, crispy pide from the genial fellows across the road very soon.
So I am here to do a sort of fusion-blog (and I hope you appreciate the gastronomic tie-in there), covering Turkish and 'other' food experiences.
Recently I have been pleased to discover nice Turkish food. This is a rather sacreligious call in the expat community, as we are duty bound to declare love for all things oily and patlican on stepping foot into Attaturk, as far as I can tell. However, a diet of school cafeteria versions of 'classic' Turkish food did its bit to put me off for a good time. I thought I just didn't really like Turkish food, and it is still true that I don't think it is really my favourite 'cuisine' on the whole. However, I have definately developed a taste for lightly grilled onion and smoky eggplant (actually I already like the latter), and am a big fan of pizza with hazelnuts, otherwise known as fındık lahmacun. I also like the Turkish approach to restaurant eating. The food tends to come in little segments that have to be properly rolled, sprinkled, peeled and/or mushed together in order for the proper effect to be acquired. (This is another reason I think I didn't 'get it' right away-- white beans and rice is HEAPS better with the red pepper spice and minty herbs, olive oil and pomegranate oil... perhaps obviously, in retrospect.) I like this because it makes me feel that bit more native when I know which bread goes with what, but also because it seems to reflect something of the approach to daily business that I witness in other contexts here-- that is that food and eating does not have to be all that accessible to be appreciated and enjoyed. It's not really that simple to eat, and no-one gets to ask for the burger/pasta version that can just be shovelled down with a fork. It can be messy and somewhat complicated to share köfte, but no-one is complaining about that or expects it to be otherwise. This goes along with, in my mind, the common and ostentatious use of toothpicks to clean ones teeth afterwards. In both cases the diner ends up rather undignified (according to what I am used to) but of course at the same time, this being 'normal' it isn't so undignified. It seems like a more visceral experience to dining is enjoyed here, and a less pretentious one for it.
Not that the Turkish cuisine advocates or neccessitates an undignified approach to food. Far from it! It's more that the dignity is found in the care and patience with which the meal is prepared and eaten.
Finally, I like the emphasis on sharing. Who doesn't want to get at some of what their neighbour has? Of course Turkey is not alone in cultivating this gastronomic covetousness. But when it is combined with the extra attentive waiter (offering you paper towel every time you drip eggplant juice down your wrist) and the melodramatic Turkish pop star careening in the background, it all starts to feel quite homely.
Australia has its charms too though. First of all, Australia seems to have the heating thing down in a way that much of Europe seems to struggle with. Am I alone in desiring a healthy 20-22* temperature? Turkey is mostly too warm, but in Summer, too cold. Lots of places seem to suffer from Did-you-know-we-can-afford-air-conditioning syndrome, also observed in parts of Asia.
And Australia has pigs. Did I mention that I miss pork?
Other than this, what I like about Australia is my own ability to judge a book by its cover there. My instincts for quality restaurants in a range of 'presentations' is well honed in Australia. I can seek out the cheap but tasty with little trouble, and I am all over the expensive but worth it. Unimpressive but authentic? Got that down too.
By contrast, when I tried to do my usual 'stake out' of the kebab restaurants of Trabzon-- doing the walk by, staying off the main streets, looking for the one most of the Turks went to etc..... I just ended up in a really average restaurant. Twice. I tried Expensive But Worth it in Ortaköy too-- and ended up paying 27 YTL for deep fried cheese spring rolls and nescafe.
Having said this, my radar seems to be improving somewhat with time. Or maybe I am just going to the places I have had luck with more often. But I know I will be returning for some tavuk şiş and dusty, crispy pide from the genial fellows across the road very soon.
